Chronograph watches
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How to choose a chronograph watch?
Four criteria guide your choice: movement type, sub-dial layout, functions and diameter. As for movement, the modular chronograph adds the chrono module to an existing three-hand calibre; the integrated manufacture chrono (Daytona, Speedmaster, El Primero) is designed as one piece and stays more prestigious. For sub-dials, the classic 3 sub-dials (hours, minutes, seconds) is versatile; the 2 sub-dials (minutes + small seconds) signs vintage elegance. As for functions, flyback resets the chrono in a single gesture, split-seconds measures two simultaneous times. Recommended diameter: 39-42 mm for daily classic wear, 42-44 mm for sport or racing.
Which chronograph for which profile?
- First chrono → 41-42 mm sport, 3 sub-dials
- Motorsport enthusiast → racing chrono with tachymeter
- Classic style → 39-41 mm chrono, 2 sub-dials, leather
- Watchmaking enthusiast → integrated manufacture chrono
- Collector → split-seconds (rattrapante)
- Mixed watchmaking style → moonphase chrono 40-42 mm
The Auberi insight: the chronograph accounts for nearly 30% of our men's sales, it is the most-bought complication, ahead of GMT and date. The versatile 3-counter, sport or racing, remains the dominant format.
Frequently asked questions
What is a chronograph for?
A chronograph is an independent mechanism that measures durations: you start, stop, reset with two pushers. Inherited from motor racing and aviation, it serves to time an effort, a cooking session, a journey — or simply to show off a beautiful mechanism in action.
How many sub-dials (2 or 3)?
3 sub-dials display chrono hours, minutes and seconds separately: the modern versatile format. 2 sub-dials (minutes + small seconds) signs vintage style and a cleaner dial. For technical use, prefer 3; for dressy aesthetics, choose 2 sub-dials with leather strap.
Modular or integrated chronograph movement?
Modular adds the chrono to an existing movement: more accessible, reliable, but thicker. Integrated (manufacture, Daytona or Speedmaster type) is built as one piece: thinner, more prestigious, more expensive. For a first chrono, modular is plenty; to collect, choose integrated.
What is flyback or split-seconds?
Flyback resets the chronograph in a single gesture, without going through stop then reset — useful in navigation. Split-seconds (rattrapante) adds a second superimposed hand to measure two simultaneous times: the most complex and rare chronograph complication.
What budget for an automatic chronograph?
Expect from €1,500-€2,500 for an entry-level modular chrono (Tudor, Tag Heuer, Hamilton). €6,000 to €12,000 for a manufacture (Omega Speedmaster, Zenith El Primero, IWC). Beyond €15,000 for Rolex Daytona or haute-horlogerie chronographs.
Full guide: how to choose a chronograph watch →
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